does anyone use DP traps for adc work? would they work in an attic or would the coon tear it up too much?

Don't do it!!!! Think of the catch circle you get outside now think of that in a attic...Wires, drywall and insulation. Even using DP's outside in yard will leave your customers with a bad impression (coon going around in circles just like a traditional foot hold trap) and even if legal the possible negative public perception is not worth the hassle. Stick with cages (or if legal) body grips up on roof where you will target the specific animal causing the issue. Try to avoid traps in attic as it puts a strain on scheduling (you must be on site when your customer can be there for checks/pick ups) as well as the need to bring a live animal through the living area of your clients home.

The NWCOA Basic Operators Training Course is a great tool to help avoid the costly mistakes.

thats what i figured. not legal here anyhow. was just curious if anyone has done it. haha. someone suggested it to me and didnt sound like a good idea then or now haha

cjoutdoors,

I did an article on using DP's for wildlife control work in the Nov/Dec 13 issue of WCT Magazine. As with all tools, there is a time and place for them to be used.

Even if they were legal for you, my suggestion is except for mouse and rat traps, don't put traps (regardless of type) in the attic. There are several issues you encounter when doing that.

First is potential damage caused by a captured animal. This can be anything from pulling wires into the cage to leaving biological material on the carpet as you carry it out of the house.

Second is that you can only check the traps when the homeowner allows you to. Even if they are able to check the trap and let you know if something is in it, you are the responsible party not them. What do you do with the homeowner who only check the traps and call when they feel like it even if they are calling in daily saying there is no catch?

Third potential problem is that you can loose equipment if the homeowner isn't "available" to let you in to retrieve it.

Instead, remember that most animals are leaving the house to get food and water, so locate the exit/entrance points and travel pathways and work on the outside. Now, you can check equipment, remove/reset traps, and get your equipment on your schedule instead of the clients.

While they have a place there are two main considerations that go against DPs for urban NWCO work. Site damage from catch circles and lack of containment of wildlife. Catch circles in lawns is bad form and worse an animal thrashing around caught by one paw is often misunderstood and even worse the unknowing may try to "help" the uncontained animal.

We have used DP's in a limited manner for our business.

If you chose to do so, make sure you are honest with yourself about anything that can go wrong, because it probably will.

Two particular cases come to mind. We used them to thwart folks who were releasing raccoons from our cage traps. In each instance it was not practical to set traps on the structure (in one instance the raccoons were under a deck, the other was a Cape Cod).

We were able to catch the animals, and keep them. There was acceptable damage (went over that with the clients first). Our customers were tickled that we were able to out fox the raccoons and their waskaly neighbors.

I would recommend shortening the cable and having as many swivel points in it as you can. Trap - double swivel - two links chain- double swivel - two links chain - anchor swivel. You may even want to go with just a single link of chain between the swivels. Pull the trap to its full length from the anchor point and add at least three feet to get the "Danger Zone" of your catch circle.

When I first started in the business back in the late 60s footholds and the Havahart trap was all we had. It didn't take long to see that customers did not like the animal struggling in the foot hold.
Over the years I have seen a dozen cases where someone set a foot hold in a building for raccoons and every time they had a huge amount of damage.
As was pointed out when in town use a cage. Its just better for business.

As Eric and others have stated, there is a place and time for all tools, it is up the control person to know the time and place. I use a lot of snares in yards, and have never had a problem. because I use my head when and where to use them. Same as with the DP. If a person can use them in their state, then there will be places where they can be used and out of sight. Just like stated with the killer traps up off the ground and out of sight. When thinking about the DP as a tool it is a very species direct trap, and chances of a non target is reduced dramatically. This past Nov doing research with them in PA, in fur trapping for the trapping school Newt and I put on, I was right in the middle of houses, all around me was yards, dogs, cats, people every where. The 5 places that I was given permission to go in and set these traps, not one problem came from it. Why because I set in the proper places. out of sight out of mind.
If you NEED to use this tool and your customer knows you will use this tool and is ok with it, and you as a professional can set the tool where it will absolutely not cause a problem, then go for it. But don't use a tool, any tool or method because that is what you do because you want to or it is the easiest. that is called controlling in a rut. We should use a tool or method because that tool or method is the best choice for that situation, considering EVERYTHING.
DP traps in a attic? I think you already know the answer to that question. Same as people putting killer traps or cages in attics with no thought of, what happens when the critter is caught?
I am a fur trapper, and very proud of being one, I will be a fur trapper long after I stop doing wildlife control, But what I do as a fur trapper, out in the woods and fields, is NOT what I do as a profession wildlife control specialist in and around people. We have to get the job done, but we MUST see beyond the catch. Every tool has a time and place in urban wildlife control, It is our responsibility to know that time and place.

I'll bet Dirk had signs that read: "Do You Want To Save A Raccoon? Stick Your Finger In This Hole And Pull."

For those that don't get WCT Magazine, here is the article minus images on using DP's for wildlife control work.

Encapsulated (Dog-Proof) Traps - Published in the Nov/Dec 2013 WCT Magazine copyright WCT Magazine 2013

Wildlife control operators are always looking for better equipment and ways for dealing with problem wildlife. Specific to raccoons, there were not many ways to deal with trap shy animals without having to resort to foot hold traps. While effective, the issues operators face with foot hold traps are public appearance and target selectivity.

Unfortunately, certain animal rights groups have misled the public with regard to the foot hold trap. They never mention that the reintroduction of species such as wolf, lynx, and river otter were made possible due to the effectiveness of foot hold traps. Instead, they paint the picture that a foot hold trap will force an animal to chew off its foot along with maiming or killing any pets that happen to get caught.

Of course, this is not the image the wildlife control and trapping industry needs. So to offset this image a new style of trap was created years ago that was specifically for raccoon, protected the captured limb from chewing, and allowed for humane harvest or removal and relocation. Although these traps have been available for quite some time, it hasn’t been until recently that wildlife control operators have begun including them in their tool bag.

When dealing with raccoons, the number one trap operators reach for is the cage trap. For 80% of all cases, this is the preferred piece of equipment as not only does it capture the problem raccoon, it also allows for protection of the animal from dogs and other threats as well as providing a transportation device allowing movement from the capture site to anywhere else. But cage traps don’t always fit where you need them to go, are expensive compared to other styles of traps, tend to be bulky, are hard to manage on jobs that cover a lot of property with no vehicle access and are able to be tampered with. So the other three available choices are foot hold traps, body gripping traps and snares.

Foot hold traps can be used for live capture but as I’ve already said, they have a bad reputation, can easily catch non targets, and can inadvertently cause harm to the raccoon. Body gripping traps are automatically ruled out when live capture is needed, laws prevent their use, or any risk of catching a domestic animal is present. Snares or cable restraints have similar restrictions to body gripping traps and are not legal in all states. So what do you use when you need to live capture a problem raccoon that won’t go into a cage trap or someone keeps letting it out? What about bird hunting clubs that need the raccoons removed to protect their ground nesting birds and are concerned about the safety of bird dogs? The answer is the dog proof trap.

Currently, there are at least 13 different styles of dog proof trap on the market. In alphabetical order these are the Alcatraz, Bridger T3, Coon Cuff, Coon Dagger, Duffer’s Raccoon Trap, Duke DP, Egg Trap, Freedom Brand Dog Proof, Soup Can Dog Proof, Sterling Lil’Griz, Trapmaster Dog Proof, and the Z trap. These traps come in a variety of shapes and sizes but they all have several common features. The first of these features is that the raccoon needs to reach inside of the trap to become caught. As the traps are too small for most dogs to reach a paw inside and fire the trap, they have been nicknamed “dog proof”. Once the trap has fired, the raccoon’s paw is held inside the trap preventing the raccoon from chewing on its captured paw so it cannot injure itself. [Note: The Soup Can Dog Proof is only the top and firing mechanism for a trap and needs to be place in a large “soup can” to prevent the raccoon from having access to its paw.] Unlike cage traps, dog proof traps do need to be properly anchored to prevent the captured raccoon from running off with the trap. To further protect the raccoon, all of the traps have a minimum of two swivel points to prevent the raccoon from rolling around and breaking a leg due to the restraint chain kinking up. For anyone not familiar with fur trapping, these traps will result in a catch circle being made as the raccoon digs up the area where it has been caught until it can be removed.

While these traps have a lot of similarities, they also have a lot of differences. Some dog proof traps have a one way trigger while others have a two way trigger. For a one way trigger to work, the raccoon needs to pull the trigger upwards before the trap will fire while a two way triggers means that the trap can fire with the raccoon either pushing the trigger away or pulling it up. The one exception to this is the Alcatraz trap. In place of the trigger, a restriction pan is used blocking the bait so that when it is pushed down as the raccoon attempts to grab the bait allows the trap to fire. [Note: The Soup Can dog proof trap has a similar type of pan that allows for it to either be pushed downward or pulled upward to fire.] While I prefer the one way trigger, each operator will need to figure out what works best for them. For anyone desiring a two way trigger, Sudden Valley Supply the makers of the Coon Dagger, does offer a conversion kit that fits most other models and can be purchased through a variety of distributors.

Before purchasing a dog proof trap, consider how you plan to use it. If it is going to be used strictly as a capture and dispatch trap any of them will work. But, when you need to be relocating the raccoon, not all of them are easy to release a live raccoon from. The Egg Trap requires you to remove its protective covering and then use a nail or special tool to release the holding spring pressure on the paw before the raccoon can be removed. On the other end of the spectrum, the Coon Dagger has a safety that can be engaged while releasing the raccoon thus ensuring that the paw will not be recaptured during removal.

As with all traps, location is the key to success. Dog proof traps should be set next to travel pathways or in areas where raccoons frequently visit. Setting the trap depends on the model you have with the Freedom Brand Dog Proof probably being the easiest to set by hand due to the plate attached to the spring wire. The Egg Trap is probably the hardest to set as you have to remove the cover, and then use a metal rod to set the trap before reattaching the cover. The majority of dog proof traps can be set by hand simply by compressing the spring and placing the dog into the trigger notch. Several different types of setters are available for the spring styles for those unable to set them by hand. At this time, I am not aware of any setters for the Alcatraz, Bandit Buster, Coon Cuff, Duffer’s Raccoon Trap, or Soup Can Dog Proof.

It is also important to note that based on the trigger type, the trap may need placed a certain way when making the set. Pull/push type triggers require resistance in order for the trigger to be fired. The simplest way to do this is to use the anchor on the trap if so equipped. Pushing the trap into the ground at a slight angle allows the anchor to provide trigger resistance as the raccoon works the trap trying to remove the bait. For dog proofs without anchors, set the trap so that the chain is fully extended for pull triggers or place a heavy object like a stone behind the trap for push triggers. For areas where a caught raccoon will cause unwanted damage, consider using a 4 x 4 foot piece of ½ or ¾ inch plywood with the trap chain fastened to it in the middle. Don’t fasten the trap itself to the plywood as you need the swivel action from the chain to prevent injury to the raccoon. The plywood will not scare the raccoon and it will protect the yard or roof from damage.

Not only has the number of dog proof traps increased dramatically over the years, but the type and amount of bait available for them has increased as well. Five years ago, there were only a couple of commercial baits available for dog proof traps. Today, there are more different types of bait available than there are types of dog proof traps. They range from pastes to granola looking to individually coated pieces that look like M & M’s. Just like the type of trap is a personal choice, so is the bait that will be used. Here is my preferred setup.

My number one choice of trap is the Sterling Lil’ Griz. Aside from dipping the trap in white Speed Dip (which is no longer available) or painting it with Rust-Oleum primer to give it protection and allow me to find it, I cut a salt water tube worm in half and slide one of the portions over the trigger. It doesn’t matter if I’m using just the upper tube part or the bottom tube with skirt. What I want is the raccoon to feel something besides the metal trigger when it puts its paw inside the trap. I like to preset all of my traps before heading out to set them and use a cable tie around the spring and body to act as a safety. This way, when I’m onsite all I have to do is anchor the trap to a tree by running a cable or chain around the tree and use a split ring or quick link to attach it to the trap chain. Then it is just a matter of pushing the anchor point into the ground, removing the cable tie, and adding my lure/bait to the trap before going to the next location.

For lure/bait I prefer to use a molasses type lure like Sterling’s Ultimate Coon Lure or paste bait like Bittersweet by Proline. When using the liquid lure, I’ll pour about a teaspoon full on top of the tube worm. For paste baits, I’ll use about a tablespoon sized gob on a stick and wipe it around the lip of the trap. These baits not only keep cats and other inquisitive animals away, it also keeps the rodents from stealing the bait. When I need to use granular or pellet style bait I’ll pour/scrape just enough to be slightly below or above the trigger. When I’m having rodent issues with the granular and pellet baits that are resulting in bait being stolen, I’ll insert a marshmallow almost all the way down the opening after refreshing the bait. This not only acts as a cap for the bait, but it also provides an additional attraction for the raccoon. Should I need to remove a live raccoon, all I need to do is put a catch pole over the raccoon to hold it, step on the exposed spring while pushing the raccoon away from the trap to remove its paw, and then place it in a transfer cage to be taken away.

Dog proof traps are not the silver bullet for wildlife control but they do have their place, especially for those times where the neighbor keeps releasing the raccoon.

Now if that intelligent article doesn't cause you to renew your subscription to WCT, that means you probably can't read anyway. And remember, if you have never had a subscription to WCT before, PM me with your name, address, and E-mail address, and I will buy you your first year's subscription free of charge. ( And you don't even have to read my column in the magazine if you don't want to )

Eric on a side note on my research on the traps this past fall. At one location we had 8 dp's set on 4 bait stations. In 3 nights we caught 9 coon and had 2 pull outs ( 2 nights 8 traps the 3nd night 3 traps) we was trapping right off the yards just in the hedges and growth areas. we turned loose all young coon 10 pounds or less. we caught 2 of those coon a second time. I was using for the most part the pull system but had a couple of the push pull. Mice would clean out the dry pellet fish food, where the marshmallow with a taste lure they did not clean out and I assume allowed for a better catch % for the coon. on one of the push pull types the mice cleaned out the bait, so without thinking I grabbed a marshmallow stuck it down in the trap and wit my figure I pushed it to the bottom. those traps have a distinct click when they fire off LOL as soon as I heard it I knew my finger was not where I wanted it to be LOL I got to tell ya it is not that bad. I had to get help to get it off but I was not hurting bad. I thought I would be sore but was not bad just a little. not one coon turned loose was in bad shape and some even climb a tree has I tried to force them to see if they could.

Ron,

This year I did a total of 10 trap nights with DP's at one of my control contracts and did 9 boar coon all from 19 - 24 lbs in 4 days and the remaining 11 over the rest of the nights. I ended up with 0 pullouts (one was getting there and was the only one to "show" where it had been originally caught compared to when I removed it), two kits (one that had been previously released to be caught later), and one opossum. I found it interesting that I didn't catch a single female until day 6. Every coon except the kits cleared 10 lbs with no boars under 15 lbs and all sets had repeat catches.

I tried your Fish Paste and Long Distance Call Fish Paste from Day 3 - pulling traps. Generally, I don't like using fish due to the cats but I applied them the same way I do all of my paste baits. As I expected, the LDC Fish Paste (which does have a stronger fish odor) did have better results and I was very satisfied with both baits and would have no problem using it in more rural areas.

In terms of damage, it was minimal with the most damage occurring in locations where the coon had small brush or a soft bank they could grab or dig into. Several grass area sets had no catch circles at all and the majority of those coons were relaxed when I approached. The only coons that "fought" the DP were the ones in cover areas.

It reminded me of a picture from Rick Finney where he had a coon with a DP on each paw and its arms were crossed over each other in an X. The coon had to be relaxed enough to its one paw caught to reach into the other DP.

Eric, on my pull outs one was with a push pull system. I did notice that on those traps I applied very little pressure to the trigger for it to get me. I believe with the lack of sign at the site on that one, was due to toe catch and they just pulled right out. On the pull system, it was a Duke. the coon went around a tree. and looks to be by chance that the spring was against the tree so the spring was depressed just enough for a pull out. I will have no problem using those traps in control work provided I can keep the out of sight from people except for in attic's LOL

I used mainly the cotton ball or a marshmallow with taste lures. But I think I am going to try old leather down in them, as they hold odor well. I use leather for my deer scent drag, lays a good trail that deer have followed for sometime 2 days on one drag, so may work well in rain or snow well. My persimmon, sweet corn and midnight inside and my coon call or old coon swamp outside the trap gets the best results out of the DP for me. Dry fish food seems, the mice clean out too fast. and fish paste baits pull to many skunks and opossums, even those are not caught too often, heck the LDC the coyotes and fox are digging it out of dirt holes.

Omygosh, you guys are talking about traps. You realize, of course, that DP stands for Displaced Persons. ( As well as Democratic Party )

Hmm, gives me an idea for predator trapping. Probably just get a rolling response.

If I was going to use a dp I would set 2 of them close enough for him to get a paws in each one limiting his ability to damage and travel. I have thought about putting 2 in a cage to protect the roof knowing he would pull both of them handcuffing himself from damaging anything including the trap. I would only do that if he was not visable and would check it first am.

Ok warrior Now you got me really wondering what your thinking LOL

Paul just thinking, I bet in a cage you would not even need to bait them. just them being in the trap, I bet the coon would put both the paws in, just like the reaching out through the trap.

I heard something about reducing pullouts - install a standard shock spring mid chain. I am going to test this next fur season. Looks like coon market is still ok.

We have used DP's on nuisance jobs and they did work good in select application. Like someone else said, with no entanglements or things to pull on, they seem calm.

One other note - caught a coon in a cage that was wearing a DP (no tag.) The idiot trapper had one strand of stove wire through the swivel. Coon was raiding pet food.

Paul only you and I would know what the old world term of DP was, dad was a DP from the Lithuania, escaped the Germans and Russians. Dad gave me my work ethic, work until you drop dead.