The earlier version of this post/thread was removed, along with others, while the site's servers were down for "repairs." Subsequent to that, there were technical difficulties that lost the thread completely. This reconstructed, revised edition includes facets from another forum to retrieve the photo album and supporting narrative. Some duplication was necessary to put this reference back together again.

"Over the past two years, I have commented on them when asked, and have assembled an album of various designs for my personal Trapping Reference Library - and to share with all trappers who may have an interest in making and using them.

Let me preface this commentary with the fact that I am by no means an expert, authority, or long term muskrat float trapper, although I have used them. My interest in them has been more out of curiosity to catalog the ingenuity of designs through research and to compliment my Trapping Library for the benefit of younger trappers who wish to explore their use as a methods option.

Here is a compilation of several different muskrat float images taken from internet resources and cataloged for this ongoing library. None of them are mine! Every attempt was made to credit and cite the individual makers and owners of those illustrated - many with permission through personal contact. I made a few "floats" as a kid 50 years ago - very crude, and not near the caliber of these. And, a couple over the years since then. I will continue to catalog additional muskrat float variations as they show up to add to this journal, including those that surface as they come in response to this post.

These floats can be anchored from the unit to the bottom using a weight, or stake, with wire , cable, or chain for attachment - a personal preference dependent upon the substrate in a given location and the ease of installation.

An often asked question is if floats can be used in rivers. In my opinion, yes, if you can keep them out of the heavy currents, along the edges, or in backwater areas. The biggest concern for using them in a river environment would be the potential for extreme fluctuations in water levels from heavy rain in the watershed, or from hydroelectric operations between dams and navigational locks, if that may be the case in your situation. Anchoring where wide fluctuations in water levels is a factor, a slip noose of some configuration is used on a solid, tall enough stake for the depth to the float to a accommodate that variation.

Tidal marshes undoubtedly have their own unique water level considerations. Maybe some of the larger river, or tidal marsh trappers here have made extensive use of them in their unusual trapping environments and can elaborate on their utility and how they anchor them in those conditions.

I used them many years ago in the quiet waters of wide ditches, farm ponds and in cattail marshes just to see if they "worked." They have their little niche in the muskrat trapping drama, but are cumbersome to handle, transport and anchor. They would not be a desirable consideration for my rat trapping methods, but I have a couple in case I may ever want to use one for that rare application.


The use of brand new wood for floats often arises. For the "wooden" framed floats, it would be best to use "aged" wood if you can locate some scrap lumber already in that condition. To weatherize it from scratch as new wood may take longer than you think. If new wood is your only option, get some cheap black, brown, or dark green spray paint at the "dollar" store and dust it after construction. Or, you could get a wood stain with a color of your choice and swab it down to cover the light wood.

Another major consideration is their high visibility for potential theft. With the thoughts of minimizing a float's visibility, reducing theft potential, and increasing attractability for the rats, camouflaging could easily be incorporated into to them. Although, some trappers using those with the colorful flotation foams, claim the bright colors are actually a bonus as a sight lure for the rats to check out the float. Experiment, observe and learn!

Any of these designs could be readily adapted with camouflage, using a little ingenuity, to accommodate a natural looking covering from local vegetation, or shoreline debris to match the surroundings as much as possible if so inclined. Possum Skinner's float is a prime example of "hiding" the structure with a reed mat, as well as providing a more natural look that may be more attractive for muskrats to investigate and to minimize visibility as a deterrent for theft.

Your comments, suggestions and photo contributions to enhance this portfolio and thread's revisions are invited since the earlier comments were lost during the the period of the server corrections.

The dimensions for these can be estimated by using the traps as a reference for extrapolation to measurements."

#1 - "Mingo" Rat Floats - Canada



#2 - "Mingo" Closeups



#3 - "ADC" Rat Float



#4 - "CJ" Rat Float



#5 - "Animals Only" Rat Float - #1



#6 - "Animals Only" Rat Float - #2



#7 - "Freeburg Trapper" Rat Float



#8 - "Keith French" Rat Float



#9 - "Fishguts" Rat Float - #1



#10 - "Fishguts" Rat Float - #2



#11 - "Fishguts" Rat Float - #3



#12 - Unknown 4-Way Rat Float



#13 - Unknown Rat Float - #110's



#14 - "Youngcoon" Rat Float



#15 - "Possum Skinner" Rat Float - #1



#16 - "Possum Skinner" Rat Float - #2



#17 - "Possum Skinner" Rat Float - #3



#18 - "Bak2trappin" Rat Float



#19 - "Northcountry" Rat Float - #1



#20 - Northcountry" Rat Float - #2



#21 - "trapper_max" Rat Float - #1



#22 - "trapper_max" Rat Float - #2



#23 - "pigtrapper" Rat Float



#24 - "Sprytle" Rat Float - #1



#25 - "Sprytle" Rat Float - #2



#26 - "WalkonWater" Rat Float - #1



#27 - "WalkonWater" Rat Float - #2



#28 - "WalkonWater" Rat Float - #3



#29 - "madtrapper" Rat Float



#30 - "Cumbtrapper" Rat Float - Canada



#31 - "Riley Johnson" Rat Float



#32 - "Casey" Rat Float



#33 - "Ketchikan" Colony Float #1



#34 - "Ketchikan" Colony Float #2



#35 - "Ketchikan" Colony Trap Float #3



#36 - "Ketchikan" Colony Trap Float #4



#37 - "Ketchikan" Colony Trap Float #5

They all look good , but I would be concerned about the Trapping regs with the multiple catch floats

As per DEC regulations:

"You cannot use a cage trap that is designed to take more than one muskrat at a setting."

True, a float set is not a "Cage trap" , but it is still a trap set designed to take more than one Muskrat at a setting. That brings up the next question:

Can a float set that is designed to take more than one Muskrat at a setting , be legally used in NY when a "Cage trap" that can take more than one Muskrat at a setting cannot be legally used?

Thank you Jonathan. I have no doubt that took some time to compile, and it is most definately an archivable thread that many trappers will find helpful.

very nice

Canvasback that is a good question. I think because you have multiple traps, each capable of taking only one rat, you're probably OK. But nothing is ever 100% clear with the DEC.

Jonathan, a very great collection of pics. Thank you very much. This has given me some great ideas.

Originally Posted By: bigpat
Canvasback that is a good question. I think because you have multiple traps, each capable of taking only one rat, you're probably OK. But nothing is ever 100% clear with the DEC.


I thought about that too. But, since the traps are sitting a floating platform I wonder if that would make that set questionable under the DEC regs. I like the sets, not so sure how the DEC would look at it.

One more thing I didn't see covered . Anchor well enough to hold a beaver as I have caught beaver using ear corn as bait on several occasions as well as a coon once . Usually a float doesn't survive a beaver catch so attach accordingly .

Drifter

Canvasback I think it would be the same as setting 2 traps on a log or on the bank side by side.

Great post Jonathan: Lots of good ideas and a great deal of work to put it all together.....a second time. Definitley archive material.

This is a "top shelf" post Jonathan
After reading this I went out to the shed and noticed I have a lot of extra wood laying around to build a few of these. I do have a few questions on construction.
1.Do you need weathered wood or will new looking work?
2. Is there any other floatation needed such as insulating foam, or will the wood float on its own?

There are some very creative minds that hang out here and it is great that they are willing to share their ideas

good post never new there were so many floats

Great floats ,I wonder if they can be modified for nutria

Here's mine. I have some styrofoam in it about two inches sandwiched between about a one inch board on the bottom and a one inch board on the top. All wood floats will become waterlogged and be very heavy if styrofoam is not used. How about bait and lure reccomendations for fall trapping? I like vertical sides so rats can't climb over the side.

Frozen,

You asked:

#1 - "Do you need weathered wood or will new looking work?"

Technically, probably not, but my choice would be to either use "aged" wood, an earth tone paint, or a wood stain for the reasons mentioned in the narrative if high visibility is a concern where set.

#2 - "Is there any other floatation needed such as insulating foam, or will the wood float on its own?"

The construction design should be reasonably symmetrical to balance the unit. Those shown made solely with wood meet that criteria without additional material. Before actual use, you may want to test float whatever design you create with the trap(s) on it to determine it's stability.

Jonathan

Canvasback,

You have made an astute, credible observation with that commentary. The semantics of wording in trapping regulation "legalize" can be, at best, tenuous at times and vulnerable to wide open interpretation - yours, mine, the conservation officer's, and of course the judge's if contested.

As a New York State resident myself, a "cage trap" to me implies just that - a cage/box = a four sided, or tubular complete enclosure of some configuration for animal entrapment. Cage traps as known in our universe usually are only capable of capturing one animal at a time. However, last summer I had a "double" young opossum catch in a 7"X7"X24" Havahart "cage trap" set for the rabbits eating the beans in my garden.

"You cannot use a cage trap that is designed to take more than one muskrat at a setting."

To me, a muskrat float is not a confining cage by anybody's definition, no matter how good they are with words - it is an open-ended platform, maybe with wire, reeds, debris or grass for a roof with an apple slice, carrot or turnip near, supporting one to four leghold, or body grip traps. Now, if that wording in the DEC regulation said "colony" instead of "cage," then we would be going to court for a real reason.

To be prudent and safe in advance, one should consult with their respective state's regulations wording to determine the legality of trapping with muskrat floats.

Jonathan

ttt

Thought I would just knock to see if there may be more designs to add to this list before the post gets too old.

Jonathan

Amazing.

Thanks for the posts....what kind of vegy is that on the wires on fishguts floats?

as always, thanks for sharing your organizational skills with us Jonathan

I think they may be either carrots, sweet potato, or parsnip - all three are often used as "bait" for muskrats.

one thing, ive often seen it written that the only wrong way to set a conni is with bait on the trigger wires, as i read i think it refered to coons, most recently in a post about catching coons with a small conni in in boxes, i personally have caught probly half of my muskrats with greens right on the wires, but is this wrong for muskrats?

A "Secret" Muskrat Float:

This is a very innovative technique used for a "working" muskrat float. It is from an older post that appeared in the Wild About Trapping trapper's forum

Jonathan

___________________________________________________________

Muskrat Float Set
Submitted by Ron Gueldner

Hi Guys. You sure have a great site. Initially I didn't think I would share my "secret" muskrat technique, but after reading all of your articles etc. I am going to. You may know this one, but I learned it more than thirty years ago trapping 'rats in Saskatchewan. I made all of my spending money this way and it held me over for the year. I checked my line twice a day, and normally all the traps were filled both times.

I like to use #1 or #1-1/2 long springs for this setup. What you need for each setup is a large can - (You can get industrial food cans for free from most restaurants) or anything else that is about the size of a half gallon of milk.

Then you need to make a raft. I cut up used pallets for mine, again these were free. Make your raft out of four strips of wood about 20 to 24 inches long, with two shorter pieces nailed across at the bottom.

On the top, in the middle of the raft, put in a couple of finish nails that stick out about 1/8" that are just the size of the traps frame. This keeps the trap from getting knocked off, but lets a snapped rat jump off easily. Put in a fence staple at the front of the raft and another at the back. You can staple your trap ring on directly or wire it to the shore line so you won't lose it.

Hook up your shore line to the front staple and trap ring and stake it out. I like about seven feet of wire. Hook up your anchor wire to the back staple and then the can. Where I trapped five to six feet was plenty but you will have to adjust based on your water level.

Here is the great part of this set- set your trap and put it into position held by the nails. Put your can (filled with rocks) on it. It should float, more or less. Now push it out to the end of the shore wire and push the anchor can off with your trapping stick that is about nine to ten feet long. You are now in business. You can check these in a flash, when you see no trap on the board you have a catch. Obviously, we didn't have trap thieves where I lived!!!

To reset- just pull in the anchor wire and do it all again.

I don't know why, but every rat that cruises by will get on the board. No bait, scent etc. I have watched and seen it happen many times. I was also surprised to see that the average rat caught this way was drowned in under 30 seconds.

I hope you can use this technique and can benefit as much from it as I do. Good luck trapping!

-Ron Gueldner

Jonathan.

I notice you didn't include PNWMTMN's pictures of his floating colony trap.
I built a similar (larger) one I had planned to try using for nutria.

You guys have some messed up rules too, but even we can use colony traps.
It's bad, when trappers from Washington pity you.

Edit*I can see where this got overlooked, because of the author's own laws, and the fact that it isn't a float in the traditional sense.
In the same way, it stands out to me, because it's the only type I am allowed to use. (no footholds, and no conibears)

Here ya go.

Building a Floating Colony Trap

Krusty

I sure would like to be able to use that floating colony trap!! Right now we're restricted to 6x6x24 completely submrged.

Thanks for posting!

John

The floating colony trap is a welcomed hybrid edition to the traditional/classic renditions of a "muskrat float" presented thusfar. The colony trap variant "floats," and is designed to catch muskrats! Unfortunately, it is not legal in several states.

Jonathan

what a post of great information jonathon, now i see what you meant, lol.

nice pics

Archives! Archives! Archives!

thanks for the hard work and all the pics and work it took to share this with us! I got some ideas from you and they will be productive! Thanks again! Geo