I just picked up some Bridger 155s, and am building some boxes for them.
I hope to use them for mink, and on a leaning pole for marten and fisher.
I still need to prep the traps and paint the boxes, but wanted opinions before I finish the rest of the boxes.
The inside of the boxes measure 6.5" X 6.5"
They are 12" long, with a 16" top board for a 4" overhang.
The screened hole in the rear is 4".
I am just curious if that is enough of a hole to give the animals the idea they can go through.
I was figuring to staple a wad of sheep's wool on the top rear corner inside for some paste bait when needed.
Then I could fasten any meat bait between the trap and the rear on the bottom.
Any input is appreciated!

i would of done 6x6 inside. my 110 boxes are 5x5 inside. i would make it trap fit in a little tighter. BUT i am no Pro so its just my opinion.

looks good, I have several different brands of 220's so each has slightly differnt dimentions I build one size box for them all some have space around the trap and fit "loose" others are very tight inside the box, I find no difference in the catch ratio. I do prefer a tight fitting box though stabalizes a bit better. Also on the traps where I have the 3 notch dogs i cut the last 2 off to prevent the chance of an animal hitting the over hanging dog and firing the trap.

They look great and I would not go any smaller on inside measurement. Your boxes as built will accomodate Belisle Super X 120 traps also which are approved for both marten and fisher here in Canada. Only thing I would add is two 3" finishing nails up thru the bottom within 2" of the back to impale your bait on.

Also I would have a longer bottom than the sides for ease in nailing on leaning poles or trees when using for marten and fisher.

If you plan to use those boxes for coon, then you need to use smaller mesh screen as coon can get to the bait with what you have now. If you plan to use them on leaning poles for fisher then you need a little over hang to nail or screw them to the pole. The over hang on the top is not needed when the traps are recessed unless you plan to trap in a lot of snow.

Thanks guys,
Lots of great help, which is what I was hoping for.
I will be looking at the dogs.
Adding some finish nails!
I am not going after coon, as we don't seem to have all that many here.
The slots are centered, so if I am going to use them on a pole, I will just flip them around, so the "Overhang" is on the bottom, so I can attach to the pole through it.
Once again, thanks guys!
Jim

I have had some animals wear out their interest over working too visible bait at rear of bait boxes and have gone back to smaller vent holes(except for bobcats). And ermine will easily go thru that large of screen if it matters. Otherwise well constructed heavy boxes should last a long time and work. Have seen wolves try to lick bait thru screen and freeze their tongue/lips to it, pulling box from trap getting loose. Replace factory chain w/swiveled cable or at least add swivel inline at spring. Fishers break a lot of chain.

the slots are way too wide and long. the trap is not stabilized. if you only cut your slots 1/2" wide and only as long as you absolutley have to, and put the trap at the back of the slot, it will be more stabil and it will 'jump' out when sprung.

The slots on my boxes are 1" wide and I have no problem stabilizing the trap. Just clamp the springs down tight on the slot and the trap is stable.

The boxes are done, thanks for the input guys!

Drakej, I added a swivel at the trap, Thanks!
bctomcat, I put the nails in there to impale the bait!

The prey's view, with the wool stapled up in the top corner to hold any lure.

I wanted the overhang for when they are in the snow here, and when I use them on poles, I will invert the box, and use it as a lip to fasten to the pole.
With the slots the way they are, when you put the springs down, the trap is rock solid.
Once again, thanks for all the input!
Jim

I concur with bctomcat. Springs lock the trap in when forced down.

Nice pretty color on the traps. Kind of makes me wonder WHY????

Also - weasels help pay for the gas. If you run a lot of boxes for marten & fisher
you will pick up weasels and on occasion even mink will climb a tree and be taken.
The smell/scent of weasel and mink will only enhance you chances on marten & fisher.

One thing worth noting is that weasel scent is a really good scent to use while using any type of trap for mink. Mink are very attracted to the smell of a weasel - at least here in Maine it works good.

Also, if you want to mount the boxes vertical on a tree you can "secure" the trap once the springs are in the locked position by having a sheet metal or wood screw located just past the slots on each side and using a rubber band around each spring and attached to the screws. This will hold the trap securely in position, and when the critter climbs up and sticks his head in he will be caught as well as if the box was mounted more horizontal.

Thanks D.L.
The only reason the traps are that color is that I was trying something new.
I had read a lot about using Rustoleum rusty metal primer as a dip, and figured I would try it on my 155s.
To each their own, but I will be using speed dip instead from here on out.
Jim

i put a screw just past the spring slot to hook my safty hooks holds the trap firm.. that said im not sure if thats good or bad it just work for me on coon