First off, let me say thank you for all the information that I have been reading in the archives for the last several weeks, I have already learned some new tips and tricks.

I had gotten some new #1 Duke Long Springs around Christmas time, and encountered a problem. Whenever you compress the spring, it is difficult to get it passed the end of the jaws, and into the set position. When the traps are set and the pans are pushed, sometimes they do not fire, do to the spring getting caught on the end of the jaws. Obviously I do not want a traps on the line that only fire some of the time.

What would be the best way to solve the problem? Should I try to bend the end of the jaws upward, or maybe do some file work?

Any information will be appreciated. Thanks, PA Long Spring

Call or E Mail Bill Duke, He will make it right

i would say bend those jaw tips upward and that would solve your problem....but i have only worked on a few long springs...but that would be my first step anyways....

I think if what I understand from reading this Duke should replace them.I never owned a Duke so maybe that the norm.

I encountered the some problems with them; as Aaron said bending the jaw tips pretty much cure the problem. I also make sure the frame is pushed to give them as much cleaence as possible. I no longer use them on my lines but the kids use them so I still have to deal with them. They work fine I just have to pay more attention when setting them. Waxing seemed to help some also.

I use the #11 Dukes (same thing just 2 springs) and know what you are saying. however I always bend up the jaw tips on every trap I own, also wax or speed dip them and you should have no problems. But like stated if you are un happy call Mr. Bill Duke and I assure you he will make it right!

the best advise i can give is don't buy Duke long spring traps,takes alot to messing with them to get them to work right.

I had the same problem. They fire and then stick with the jaws open. Got worse after they had some rust on them. Make sure the springs aren't on upside down, the large hole in the spring arm should be up. I think it also helped on mine when I twisted the spring eye a little so that when you turn the spring the part of the loop outside the jaws is raised up a bit. I talked to Bill Duke about the few I had, he offered to replace them at no cost to me, but I fixed them myself when I converted them to #11s with some old springs I had laying around since I needed a few more mink traps.

Post some pictures hard to say what's wrong .

I have never owned a Duke foothold trap. One reason is that I have a shed full of Victor and Blake & Lamb footholds from #1 to #4's. The only other footholds are my Bridger #2 modified that I use for coyote & cat. I have over the last few years shifted to this one trap. I like the trap and the coyotes don't destroy them. If I could, I'd use #3's but our jaw restrictions in the Lynx zones took care of that. The #2's as sold are also too large, but I can quickly and cheaply modify them to make them legal.