I looked through the archives and didn't find a lot of info on otter handling. Hopefully we can get a thread put together with pics and tips to get the most out of the fur. Some of topics I'd like to discuss are: singe, tail pleating, where to pin the back legs, inspection window, fleshing tips, ect. Here's one I did to start the discussion:

Would especially like to hear from those who ship their otters as I have several more to do that are heading north. Thanks.

That looks good to me. But I am by no means experienced at otter

http://www.nafa.ca/trapper/Resources/NAFA_PeltHandlingManual_2009.pdf

Rickey

Personally I like a pretty clean head, but some late nights it just don't happen. I also would stretch the tail wider and possibly pleat it. That just me but it looks good. I keep my legs up front also, helps with the tail stretch, and not a big inspection window. Most singe is already done so don't worry to much about it. I pulled one out of the water the other day and when dried was already singed.

You must be awful tall to hang those strecthers...LOL......here a few pic of the way I put them up

I do my otter tails the same way.I spoke with several fha graders when the pleated tail started showing up and they said to keep the tails natural shape.Same with the pelt.

thats what I thought!

It's either hang them high or pick them off the ground when the tractor knocks them down. The shed belongs to a buddy. Got any pics of your otter put up Cletis? I have ten left to do.

I got three left, got all my coons, yotes , cats put, then beaver to do......quess will thaw out and pelt the swift fox instead of taxi-net

Where do they measure the pelts with the back legs on the tail side? Bottom of the legs, or base of tail?

I used to pleat mine wide and short, now i just tack them without stretching them. I haven't noticed any difference in the price i get for them.

They measure down the back to the base of the tail.

Got any pics of your otter put ups beeverpeeler?

Nope. I'll have to remedy that...well here's one pic

Don't know what Carl would do without friends like me. I have to keep tabs on his pictures for him now!!! Here are a "couple" of Carl's otter from a few years ago showing the put up.

In the pic that "newhouse114" posted there are some otters that have darker leather. Is there any reason for this?? Or just as simple as,,,some are dark and some are light.

Here are some of my tips. Flesh on a beam and use fine sawdust. Be sure all sawdust gets removed with a final scraping with a one hand flesher once boarded. Use a burlap apron to keep the pelt from slipping on the nose of the beam.









Three acceptable ways to handle the leg holes. Trim and just leave them open, pin them closed, or sew them with a purse stitch.

Trim:



Open:



Pinned:



Sewn, we use a three cornered glovers needle for all fur sewing:







One other tool we use for final touch up on otter head and neck as well as those two heavy strips of gristle like fat down the tail is an old safety razor with the teeth removed so about 1/16 if and inch of the blade protrudes. Works well on shoulders and head of beaver also.





The tail can be pinned or use a screen, cardboard over it also works very well. Do not pleat the tail.





Be sure you make a good window and use a belly wedge. Under the end of a belly wedge another small wedge helps so you main belly wedge does not stick.

I always get a kick out of the Canadians and Alaskans that use sewing needles in their fur put up. But maybe if I lived where it was that cold I'd rather stay in where it's warm and sew too!

Very nice work Ron. Thanks for sharing the pics.

I like that idea of the wedge under the wedge. I often have trouble with my otter wedges getting stuck. I will definately be trying that method out.

Trapperron the kicker wedge under the main will be a time saver....thanks