I had this in the old Trapperman Archives. Glad I kept a copy of it! Might want to put this whole post back in there Mods. Posted by j. morris (Member # 3746) on 05-07-2006 12:02 AM:
Here are some pics that I uploaded for maddog47. I will let him fill in any needed info.
Check out this post that we had going the other day about coni's and cats. conibears for bobcat

[ 06-03-2006, 12:56 PM: Message edited by: j. morris ]
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Posted by 2poor (Member # 2222) on 05-07-2006 08:23 AM:
Earth to Maddog come in Maddog.
You going to explain the benefits of using the pans or are you going to let the pictures speak for themselves ?
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Posted by maddog47 (Member # 3241) on 05-07-2006 08:59 AM:
2poor
These pictures are posted through the willingness of Jerry Morris. I have been asked to supply pictures via the thread on conibears for bobcats. These are my pictures but I lack the knowledge of posting them, so I sent them to Jerry and he posted them.
I have great success using these pans because it opens up the body gripper entrance. The cats are more willing to stick their heads in the box vs. the standard triggers. I swear that cats feel the standard trigger wires with their whiskers and back out. I also beleive that cats will shy away from any obstruction hindering their entrance. The beauty of these wooden coni pans is any animal from weasels to coon, fisher, marten, skunk, mink etc will trip them. If you read the article done in the American Trapper last month on me you will notice we took over 20 weasels with this system in our boxes set for cats. Smaller animals like weasel, mink and marten will put their feet on the pan and whamo, right around the neck/head. Larger animals like bobcat, coon and fisher seem to trip the pan with their chins or chest. Instant death. I prefer to use these home made wooden pans vs, the metal ones as the animals are more likely to make contact with wood vs. metal. I make no claim to be a know it all, this system just works well for me. I limit on bobcats each year so if it works for me it will work for you. I will be happy to answer any question. One thing I must add however is if your not setting on location your not going to have success with anything you use.
Gary
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Posted by Madtrapper (Member # 1276) on 05-07-2006 09:03 AM:
That's very much like I do it Gary, but on 120's for mink and Marten.
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Posted by dayooper (Member # 4357) on 05-07-2006 09:18 AM:
How do you set those for coon? Do you prop the front up just like in the pic or do you try to get the front higher? How deep is that box? Coons ever try to just rip the screen off the back? Thanks
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Posted by 2poor (Member # 2222) on 05-07-2006 09:32 AM:
I have had the raccoon work the boxes from the back on occasion. To discourage this I have piled some brush over the box and made sure some of it was in the way of them working the set from the rear. I do have less problems with reach in's when using the pans vs wire triggers.
Thanks to Jerry for posting the pictures.
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Posted by maddog47 (Member # 3241) on 05-07-2006 09:57 AM:
Dayooper,
I set ecactly this way for coon as well as bobcat. The coon hit the wooden pan with their chest. The top of my boxes are 24 inches, the sides are 18 inches. Bait goes all the way to the rear which stops them from reaching with their feet. I have never had problems with coon ripping the back of the box open as they see through the back from the front.
Gary
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Posted by Beaverpeeler (Member # 728) on 05-07-2006 12:07 PM:
Maddog, are those pics of 160's?
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Posted by bobkat (Member # 3805) on 05-07-2006 12:47 PM:
Gary, Are the pans drilled for the trigger wires? How do you attach them? What is the angle or do you have a side view to see the angle? Bob
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Posted by maddog47 (Member # 3241) on 05-07-2006 04:10 PM:
Beaverpeeler,
These are both 220's. The 160's look identical. Bobkat, the pans are drilled through and the trigger wires slide rite on and are then bent horizontal to hold in place.
Gary
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Posted by maddog47 (Member # 3241) on 05-07-2006 04:12 PM:
Almost forgot, The angle on the top two pictures is acceptable but I prefer the angle on the picture of the box more so. Remember to raise the front of your box up about 3-4 inches with a branch or log.
Gary
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Posted by trapperjoeAK (Member # 6136) on 05-07-2006 05:13 PM:
What are you using for the wood, and do you drill all the way through? I have used the metal ones, but I like how that looks much better. Thanks for the very informative thread.
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Posted by maddog47 (Member # 3241) on 05-07-2006 07:12 PM:
Trapperjoe,
I prefer to use a hard wood like oak. You can get it free when they remodel older homes. Old baseboards and trim from these old homes are excellent material. Soft wood like pine and balsom are easier to work with but coon and fisher will break them often. I drill all the way through the pan and slide the pan through the triggers, then I bend the excess triggers horizontally. Next bend the pan to the degree of your preference.
Gary
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Posted by Mountain Cur (Member # 4237) on 05-07-2006 07:30 PM:
Thats pretty neat, I wonder if it'll work for mink down here in the south?
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Posted by casey (Member # 6507) on 05-07-2006 10:12 PM:
Looks great, But do rats and mice ever fire them?
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Posted by Sparky (Member # 882) on 05-07-2006 10:40 PM:
I like the idea of this set, however us in VA can't use a cubby with a conni bigger than 5" useing a bait that will attaract a dog. That pretty much rules out cubbies with connibears.
Sparky
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Posted by maddog47 (Member # 3241) on 05-08-2006 08:23 AM:
To answer both questions,
Have caught plenty of weasels and squirels but never a mouse or rat. As for the 5" law in VA I would suggest you use 120's in the plastic paper tubes you see on roads. Scotty Waldorf who posts on this forum has a great market for them. Send him a pm.
Gary
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Posted by Nelacres (Member # 7113) on 05-08-2006 09:01 AM:
Maddog47, I read that article and loved it. Thanks for posting the pics. You said to prop up the front of the box, which front, where they stick their head or where the bait goes. Thanks sometimes I'm blond.
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Posted by Trapper7 (Member # 629) on 05-08-2006 01:43 PM:
Thanks for a nice post and for all the other good things you do for trappers, Gary.
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Posted by maddog47 (Member # 3241) on 05-08-2006 02:33 PM:
Nelacres,
No question is a dumb question. Those who have something to share with others to help our sport grow and prosper would rather questions be asked than have somebody do something wrong. To answer a good question you want to raise up the front of the box which is where the body gripper sits. The reason I raise the front is so the bobcat is not bending or crouching. If he comes in eye level standing straight up on all four legs he is more apt to enter the box. Trapper7 I thank you for your compliment. To be able to do the little bit I'm able to do to help preserve this great sort for generations to come is an honor in my book.
Gary
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Posted by bobkat (Member # 3805) on 05-09-2006 03:34 PM:
Sparky, I don't think marshmallows and grape jelly or honey would be considered dog "food". You can use Super Maple also.
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Posted by dayooper (Member # 4357) on 05-19-2006 06:05 AM:
I notice the dog is on the bottom and against the wood, it looks fairly stiff...does that cause a problem with the trap firing?
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Posted by maddog47 (Member # 3241) on 05-19-2006 08:22 AM:
Push the two springs down until the bottom jaws raise a quarter inch. I should have checked the dogs position before taking the photo. Sorry.
Gary
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Posted by Macthediver (Member # 191) on 05-19-2006 10:00 AM:
Any statistics on using this set up on garden munching rabbits? Living in town I'm always trying to knock them off discreatly. Can't have them spining on a chain. I run a few threw plain 110s but some seem reluctant to stuff their melon in one for some reason. 160s have to have the wires close enough that it might as well be a 110. This looks like it might make a rabbit dive right into a 160???
Mac