No sticks in frount of the trap for me on cubbies. Walk-throughs, I use stepping sticks or rocks for some distance on both sides. For pan tension, I would say I use heavy pan tension.

I use a small stick in front of the loose jaw and a bigger one behind the other jaw in all my cubbies. Works great. The purpose is to use the bigger stick behind the solid jaw as the cat will stop and step between the jaws.

I think pan tension is necessary, I have measured it but I can tell without measuring it. I'm guessing 2-4 pounds.

I don't like catching rabbits and such.

To bad there isn't a way to adjust it on the other end to avoid lions.

Joel

I use 3-4 pounds...if I use to little pan tension when I'm settin a trap sometimes they will fire and...Wham..you just got an..OUCHY...I put the pan tension I want cause when the cat has committed to my set....I will catch em with above the foot....even if it's a hind foot..However I had a couple toe catches this year...one I believe was the trap was partially froze down but fired fast enough to toe catch....the other I don't know just glad the cat didn't pop the trap and take off...sometimes I come to a set and the traps fired sitting in it's bed...no sign of tracks at the set cause the grounds froze..that's when I start watching my trap dog...he'll let me know what's been around if you just listen to em.....

Thanks for the replies regarding pan tension...learning alot about 'cats...now all we need is a season....and some 'cats. lol

Bill's book shows a nifty way to increase pan tension and reduce pan wabble-

If you dont have pretty good tension it seems like you catch every packrat and civit cat that comes along.

How do you increase pan tension on dogless traps?

Thanks for a little info on this guys. Looks like it would have helped us out a little bit here in Nebraska this year with the snow and the hot and cold weather.

TTT

Question for all you exposed set/shingle users. I am currently working on a design of oversized pan , lazer cut and have lever relief notches if needed, cut from heavy gauge material about 2x thickness of a standard pan. They would have a hole in center and/or possibly 3 other holes towards outer edges. The center hole would allow bolt on installation and removeal and 3 holes off center line would allow a permanent welding option.

I handmade a few and tested and they worked great. I took elmers yellow glue and put on some pans then dusted with sand, and others I just left alone and threw a little dirt over to get rid of metal look. Both worked great and will probibly just scatter a little dirt over them for my own use in the future.

I get tired of running out/ or losing either shingles or paper clips, and am going to make 50 for mayself, and if I could judge interest I'd go ahead and make enough to sell retail. I'm looking a $20-24 price per doz retail.

I'd like to judge the interest here and a few other sites to determine wheather to proceed with these on a retail level.

I would initially make for no 2 and 3 square jaw sized traps, and possibly no 3 longsprings if there was a demand.

Let me know any and all thoughts on above.

i would interested in them. i have often thought about making some myself just like that.

ttt

I think it's a good idea but I wouldn't use elmers glue as I belive when they got wet and set there it would be washed off.

TTT

Also in Bill Ilchiks Wild West Bobcats book is a way to supe up the stock coilsprings without four coiling. This would also create a little more pan tension.

I prefer 3-4 pounds on my cat traps. I like the cat commited when the trap fires.

ttt

TTT

I believe the pipe is the "cutter" for his shingles as it has a tapered point. I'd guess he pounds on the top bar kind of like a giant cookie cutter.

What is a cats home range in Feb.? Let's say females.