I have a question about taking off the oiler of my tundra. All I have to do is take out the long gear drive and then plug off the line that goes to the carb right. It would be the line circled by the red line right? Do I need to plug off the line that goes to the pump? Do I need to take off the cable that connects to the throttle, or can I keep it connected just in case I ever want to use it again. Here are some pictures for you guys to see what I'm talking about. Also Snow Machines are 50 to 1 right. So with my math it would be 13 ounces to 5 gallons.

Oiler gear. I finally see of cheap this thing is.


Inside of the pump where the gear connects.


Oiler pump as it looks in the machine


Oiler supply in yellow, and discharge from the pump in Red. Atleast I hope I have it right

Plug the line that goes to the pump and from the pump to the carb. You can leave all that crap on if you want to but getting rid of it makes it easier to repair your rewind when it breaks at -40 when you're 82 miles from home.

I took it all off. Oh the cable. I snipped it off way back. You need to be able to make the committment WE. Just ask your wife.


The other thing to do is just leave it all OEM. Just mix gas and don't put any oil in the reservoir.. But all that crap is still in the way.

i agree with white, get rid of all that crap! I even removed the oil reservoir tank. i use 50 to 1 oil mix for everything umpteen outboards at the fishing lodge as well as all my snowmachines, 500 ml of mix to 5 gal of gas.

Im getting there. It took me two years to take it off. I will miss pulling up to the gas station, but it was time for it to go. I really couldn't believe how cheap those gears are. That is why I posted some pictures, so that others may see. I should be done with it tonight and then i can add some gas and start it up. Now all I need a new/used track that i can afford and it will be brand new.

Is this still necessary in new models (2010) or have they taken a few thousand hints and complaints and fixed the setup yet?....

If I am missing the point and it is just a "cold weather" sort of failure, just point out my ignorance...

Well consider this. When is the oiler most likely to fail? When the machine is running. Are you going to have any warning ? No. Result? Fried engine.

Yeah it could be a real cold issue also. If you're starting your machine at minus 30 or 40 there is no heat under that cowling. The oil in the reservoir is pretty stiff and probably not pumping very well. It's my belief that under those circumstances you are not getting the oil you need delivered to the cylinder.

I prefer to mix my fuel and be absolutely certain that the machine is getting what it needs.

If you have a new machine that is under warranty I would not remove all that crap. It would void the warranty. I would just mix gas and not fill the reservoir.

I have been wondering the same thing & anticipating getting rid of the oiler. Can I just let the tank go dry and mix? I have thought about just putting a bolt in the oil line and just mixing fuel on my Indy would this be OK?

I've burnt piston up on my tundra having the oiler fail. Did white17 warn me to rip that thing out, yes. Did I heed his warning, No. Did the 7 mile walk back to town make me think, of course. Did it cost me 275 to fix it, yep. Did I have any regrets about not doing earlier, always.

I did rip it off after the fact. Absolutely.

So don't learn it the hard way like me.

Good luck

There's testimony from a believer !



Martenpine. yes you can do both of those things.

In addition to the plastic gear, the "banjo" fitting on the oil line to the carb (the one in the red box) is incredibly fragile and will shear off if tapped hard in frigid temps. I broke mine while working on the recoil so that made the decision to pull off the oiler for me. No regrets, now I only have one fluid to add and only have to remember to mix before adding:)

Hey Woodelf, you gonna run that tundra this year or the big one?

If you want, feel free to put my cell # into your SPOT so if you get in a bind, I can help out. Or give my # to your wife so she can call me and give me your location if she gets the help message.

I had just about the same experience. Working on the rewind and somehow my axe interfaced with the oiler. The rest is history.

Pit, I think that I'm going to run the tundra at first only because I figured it is a little narrower then other ones out there and it might deter people from using it. Who knows. I do like the bigger one, because it has reverse. I will use it for going up in the hills for some bird hunting. We have to plan a winter trip up in the hills for some ptarmigan this winter.

Did you find a track for that tundra?

Not yet. I can run one more year on this one I think. I was also looking for a belt guard that i can't seem to find anywhere. Also I thought that that the 1992 tundra LT had a 136 track one guy was saying it was a 139. I can get a new one for about 500, but I hate to spend that kind of coin on it. I will wait and see if I can find someone that is parting one out. Do you really need the belt guard or is it just there for finger reasons?

I think the belt guard is to keep a shredded belt from going thru your cowling.

I don't see any reason you'd have to have it.

If you get in a bind there are lots of old tundra carcasses here. I can probably find what you need.

Woodelf... those tundras are great low snow beater machines for the early season trips..Yea, lets hit some ptarmies once we get some snow.


I've got two tundras and I'm planning on selling one, I just need to fix a recoil/fan on it first. Until I get it fixed, and/or sell it, you can steal the guard off it if you want.