OK Mncooner,
Here's your post!

This is a post about why coyotes,(and we can go into other animals too, but mainly coyotes) avoid or miss snares.
Since coyotes, as well as most furbearers, are easily snared, why is it that many trappers have trouble snaring coyotes in numbers, especially in the high tech age of information we live in.
Now I've not seen Marty S. From Canada' new DVD but I have seen quite a few others and some of these guys who are pretty good trappers are actually poor snaremen and it's evident when you see it on film!

So that said, I hope someone will add to this and help get the ball rollin'.
What say ye snaremen?

I'll be watching this one very closely.

My first guess around here, this time of year, is tracks in the snow/disturbed area around the snare.

And, no, I have no clue how to levitate, so I need to figure this one out.

My second guess, is lack of good camo, and the snare sticks out like a sore thumb.

My third guess is the coyotes hate me, are on to me, watch me from thickets.

LOL. I too am watching this topic with great interest. Coyotes have made a fool of me since November...

The number 1 cause of coyotes "stalling" out and avoiding a snare that I have seen is because I have already snared a coyote there and did not re locate the snare.I see it a lot on fence crawl unders,which there normally is not an option to re-locate, rarely do I get more than 1 in a fence in the same spot.

Am I alone?

Forgot to mention the reason I know they stalled out is because the tracks in the snow don't lie. I have seen where I have had a snare and caught a coyote, couple weeks later after a fresh snow I could see where one went right to the snare and paced around, but would not commit.

I continue to reset them with snares, but I think if I were smart, just reset the spot with a trap near the fence opening.

When I first started with Cable Restraints (snares) here in PA I had numerous, snow documented, refusals. Newt hit a home run when he advised me to walk the trail beyond the snare and not just stop and set it or reposition it. Since I have heeded his advise, refusals are rare. I have not been successful in resetting a snare catch circle, even with a foothold. I now reset further down the same trail at some other narrowing opportunity. I also now dip my snares in Brown Formula 1, and may even touch up with some light tan spray paint. I had a coyote turn within a foot of a snare set on a moonlite night prior to doing this. If I set an active trail, usually I can snag the canine running it. Now that I wrote this, the snares that I will hang tomorrow will probably remain empty.

I'd also like to see included in this thread what color you prefer to paint/treat your snares with, especially those that snare a lot in snow...

I have had refusals but have reduced them dramatically over the years by doing a few things. 1)I follow through the trail. 2) I blend my snare in better with light weeds it really helps to breakup the outline to the snare. I do not dip or treat my snares they are just boiled on baking soda and hung out till needed. I use 3/32 7x7 with a washer lock here because in Indiana they have to be nonlethal. If it werent for the law I would drop my cable size and use amberg type locks. That would help also.

I would say the main reasons for avoidance would be disturbance to the area and walking up to check your snares everyday. I don't venture to far away from my vehicle when snaring so I can usually check my snares from the road. If I have caught something I can usually tell by the catch circle. Now when I locate a trail I don't walk the trail but instead I will walk parallel to the trail about 20 feet out if possible. When I find a location on the trail that I want to set I will approach the trail from the side and place my snare. I will never step foot on that trail unless I absolutely have to. Now I'm not saying that you cant catch coyotes if you walk on the trail because you can but I have experienced better catches by staying off of them. I think that by leaving disturbance or scent on the trail the coyote becomes more alert and cautious and may travel at a slower pace making it easier for the yote to see a snare. About once a week I will walk in to make sure that the snare has not been knocked off or closed shut due to the wind. I will re walk the same path that I used when I set the snares. I have often heard that coyotes and fox will start using these trails that are being made to set and check snares but I can honestly say that I have never seen it. In my experience they avoid it like the plague. For snaring in the snow I spray paint all of my snares months before the season opens so that they can air out. I don't get crazy with the spray paint, a light mist will do the job. I have set snares out in the middle of frozen sloughs along coyote trails with good success. It's amazing to have snare placed out in the open with no weeds or cattails to block it's outline and have a neck snared coyote waiting for you.

Like mentioned above if your walking the trail and set a snare continue walking down the trail.

What color?

Thanks for the nice response. I see the same thing here. Coyotes avoid human tracks whenever possible.

I spray them with a flat white spray paint when snaring in snow. I do have some snares on hand that are painted a flat tan which blends in remarkably well when placed in trails through soil bank or cattails.

i have had several avoides snares this winter. i boiled and dyed my snares, but i did so with brown and now we have 4 foot of snow. thought about spraying them white, but afraid the smell will hurt worse than the color. i have been trying to hide them better with brush and plants.

the point of walking the entire trail is new to me and will be something that i will do tommorro.

I boil my snares in maple bark then i put them in plastic container with a couple spruce twicks and a lid to keep all unwanted odours out. My best sets are bait sets that i use year after year. I go around in the preseason and touch them. Any new sets i make never produce near as good that first year. Hang them quick and get out don't block them in to much or fuss with them. I have no problem with walking down there trails just set them quick and keep going don't turn around at the snare. I don't beleave that an animal knows what a snare is unless they were caught before and chew out or running with a mate that was caught. My biggest taboo is i take my dog with me and after getting caught in one he now avoids them. Check them from a distance if possible and never walk up to them and turn around. Step over and keep going.

I have painted snares and then set them a few days later and have caught coyotes with them so it can be done if your in a pinch.

I never found a white paint that matched the brightness of snow. There are different shades of white and I break up the outline, along the sides of the snare, with a neutral color that matches the vegatation somewhat. I am almost always using some type of native material and/or grasses for blocking, at least on one side. I have painted snares ahead of a big winter storm and caught coyotes three days after.
Now I don't reccomend that, But I have done it. Our snow seldom last for more than three weeks here, usually in late January and February, when most coyotes are worthless, fur wise, anyway. I seldom set out snow white snares but I do have some ready if I feel I need them. A snow white snare still stands out against snow!

If you ask most Alaskan or Canadian bush trappers, most will boil in cedar limbs, sage, willow or whatever they have available and air out. Many trappers too will use a big piece of white chalk and rub up and down the sides to break the outline. Now chalk has a smell...Maybe not at -40...but it does have a smell!

*Note: I tried to post the other night but after typing about 20 minutes or so, the computer went blank and it was all I could do not to break something. Needless to say, the message was lost!

I am currently under the weather and am trying to get my health back before it goes in to pneumoia..so bare with me. I do have some thoughts to add on this subject and want to thank MNcooner for bringing up the idea. It is a common problem with trappers, who although catch coyotes in snares, miss far too many!

It is very pleasing however, to read what has been posted thus far. It shows we have some very knowledable trappers out there and even more who want to learn. I sincerely hope more will add to this post. Traps checked for the day...I'm going to bed!

Catch anything? Besides the sickness.

i had somthing knock my snare down twice and know i see where they make a loop about 3 feet to the side of the snare i think the one time it was live stock that got in the feild after i set up

does anyone use stepping sticks or guide sticks laying parallel to trail but to the side?
how important do you think scent free snares are? i've heard some say they don't use gloves even!
one of my biggest problems is locating a main trail. too many times what looks like it's getting used goes dead.
also one thing i try to do is come in from the side and reach thru a bush or brush. this leaves my tracks less noticiable.
great thread!

44charlie,
Human scent from "clean" hands, is not going to stay on cable out in the elements for any lenth of time. Would it be on there some? Sure. Would it matter on a camo-ed trail or fence snare? Probably not.

That said, I normally use some kind of thin gloves when handeling snares because I am around all types of odors ( animal, bait, urine, food items,) in the course of a days trap check and can not always wash my hands. I would be more conserned with how well the set blends and how natural it looks after setting the snare than human odor. Many trappers that I have observed, are actually very poor snaremen and do not make the set fade in, which causes coyotes, cats and even foxes to stall out.
More on that later...( still struggling , a bit under the weather).

they stick out from the surroundings or they can smell

Scent on the snare??????????
I dont think that would be a factor. What about the Scent Pool that you leave at the set, while making it?????

I tell my students to practice,practice,practice making sets,BEFORE season or off the line.SO you can get in and get out FAST.
Kind'a like the rule that Gun fighters use. "Take your time and aim ,BUT DO IT FAST

Great advice from an even greater snareman.
Thanks Newt!

I am a disabled trapper, paralized from the waist down I need a crutch to walk with. And I use snares all the time, When setting I need to sit right on the ground to make my set, since I can not balance well enough to set the snare while standing. The scent has not been a problem for me. I have caught every animal that we have in Minnesota snaring this way except a lynx, I have even caught Timber Wolves ( more then one ) in fox snares by the foot this way. I have found using snares that I do not need to worry about my scent as much as with traps. Even in the snow I sit down and do not brush out the marks I make in the snow and still catch plenty of critters. Even this large of a scent pool seems to disapate rather fast for I have caught many animals the first night out, even coyotes. Crutch

I am inspired by that story! Proud to know ya' Crutch!

I have to agree!!
Thanks for the insight and encouragement!!!

Been wanting to add to this post but been really feeling under the weather for about a week or more. We are currently at about 20 degrees here with a heavy ice,(melt and refreeze) and snow cover... the kind you put your full weight on before it breaks through...(hard to sneak up on anything too)!

Spent yesterday pulling the last of my coyote snares on the fur line. Had one coyote in a 1x19-1/16th on a Slim lock, and not too bad of one for a February coyote either. He was choked up pretty good with dozens of fresh coyote tracks around him in the new snow...of course my fault, as I had pulled all but two snares in that area.

I'm starting to like that 1x19-1/16th with a Slim lock, more and more. It does blend in so much better than the heavier cable and locks I had used in the past. Anyone else using that same set-up for 'yotes? Just curious.

All my yote snares are boiled and aired out, all my trail cam pics showed that out of 100 yotes , only 9 were out running in day light hours, so I dont bother with dye or chalk. I also like to drag a bloody rabbit down the trail too. This type of snaring I like to use late season when we have about 40 inches of snow. works great !

"I'm starting to like that 1x19-1/16th with a Slim lock"

Well how about that ! :-) :-) :-)

LOL

When you boil your snares.What do you do with the soda??
I get water boiling then put snares in and then dump soda in slowly. I boil them for a few minutes.. Is this correct??
How do you do it??

If you haven't seen Newt give a demo...do so. You'll smack yourself in the forehead and say..."shoulda hada V8".

Newt, I got the 1x19 1/16th Slim lock idea from you!
Hahahahahaha!

Dang Newt, I got the 1x19 1/16th Slim lock idea from you!
Hahahahahaha!

You don't have problems with twisting or chew outs with that size? I have never went below 3/32's. Just curious.

Well I asked on the early post how you all boil your traps.. The boys and I put out 14 snares with little or no response.But one boy brings in a nice weasel from one of his box traps.. I did scouting a couple of weeks ago and located tracks a scat and set my snares accordinly. No luck yet..tomarrow 32 degees.
I don't know if I boiled them right..
On some other land.
Before snow I got two coyotes and a boar coon..Three weeks past and nothing.. Had a pair of tracks visit regulary,but no catches.. Brought in two road kill deer but no taste test from the yotes but some crows.. Snow got too deep and closed the snares.. Went back two weeks after close up no sign.. I put to conclusion that when i checked my sets I checked them too often and used a same path every time too close to the snares..They even [Please excuse my language... I'm an idiot] on a snare..Some came to a foot to six feet from my snares.. Made pathes for them in the deep snow but that didn't work..Next time I'll make them so I can walk in and see them all at a glance .Tom

Well it is pretty common for coyotes to spot a dark snare against a white background...add to that a bunch of human tracks going up to the snare over and over and turing around... and you will see a number of fox and coyotes STALL OUT!... especially when very little blocking is used...and even that can be over done.

Then again...you get trappers like those ol' boys up in Canada,( Braham's Trapping, I think it's sold under) who never boil, paint, dye or camo a snare..just use it shiney, just like they made it, shiney camo locks, cable ferrels and all...absolutely no hiding it! and still they catch coyotes up there in all that snow by baiting them in...Someone like me who makes setting coyote snares an art form practically, just looks at that and thinks Un*%#@believable!

If I'm not ADC Trap'n/Snare'n
Just fur trap'n/snare'n. I'll pick up my snares ,go down the road and set up on a new bunch of coyotes.Then catch the dumb ones there too.When they'r cought up,I'll move on again.
I have found that 10 dumb coyotes are worth 10 times as much one smart one.
You guys stay where the smart one is. I'll take the 10 dumb ones.:-)

I believe that when I got my two this winter was a little or no snow.. This grove was thick and had a lot of rabbits. I noticed now that that how I got them was they were running hard for those hares. But when deep snow came I think they were a lot smarter..
I thought I had only one in the grove by his tracks,but I noticed the tracks coming in, the second yote followed the exact same tracks!!

Lt,

I'm using that setup some. Here's one I caught the other day. 1/16 1x19, slim lock, 75# kill spring from O'Gorman. Coyote is snared by neck and alive. He's not tangled up too bad, but the spring was compressed quite a bit.

Ha!
I always thought I was the only one who could snare a coyote in a snare set-up like that and not have it dead when I got there. Cutter, thanks to you, now I don't feel so bad!

Up

...as in Michigan's?

LT, hope you are feeling better, could you please share more? I i'm one of the dumbies trying to catch the smart ones so I need all the help I can get. Thank you to everyone who has shared their knowledge here.

Sure...guess maybe you should throw some questions out there and we'll try to answer them.
Lots of good snaremen on here!

I want to know it all.LOL I guess with my first few months of trapping, I hav become kinda partial to the snares. Caught two fox and one coyote with them. I recently bought some snares from a fur buyer, lure and bait maker and trapping suplier here and they are built with 7x7 1/16" on the business end and I'm guessing 3/32" on the tie end. I boiled them in soda water and then dyed them with logwood and the chrystals. Let them air out and then set them a few days later. Too soon? Wrong dye? Should not dye? I may have gotten started too late in the year, but this is why I am here and the fact that this trapping thing has taken a hold of me like nothing else. Like I said before I thank everyone that has shared their knowledge with success and that no good miss.

I DONT DYE MY SNARES SOMEBODY TOLD ME TO SOAK THEM IN A CREEK FOR TWO WEEKS BEFORE USING DYING THEM SLOWS EM UP AND CAN CAUSE SNARE TO NOT FUNCTION I LEARNED YOU HAVE TO BE PATIENT WHEN WE CHECK OUR SNARES WE TRY AND DO IT FROM A GOOD DISTANCE IF POSSIBLE SO WE DONT PUT TO MUCH SCENT AND EVIDENCE OF HUMANS IN AREA KEEP AT IT DO WHAT YOU DID ON THE FOX AND YOTE YOU GOT

Well, I never dye snares with logwood the way you do traps. I don't want my snares black because they will stand out like a sore thumb against a brown and grey enviroment.
I use to boil them in baking soda to dull them and to take off any excess oil..however, I don't even do that anymore.
The trapper known on here as ADC brought up the point that doing this causes snare cable to start rusting from the inside, if kept over from year to year...and I had noticed that.
Today, I dip the snares in thin Formula 1 once or twice, depending on how it looks and streak them, using spray paint of several camo colors. I do this in the summer and then air out until needed.
I've never notice any problems or refusals when doing it this way.
I should note that with Formula 1,,( which is a water based dip, by the way) you need to really shake off any excess dip after you pull them out and once dry, run the lock back and forth a half a dozen times or so. With Cam-locks make sure they work back and forth, as Formula 1 can build up inside these if not careful!

So the ones that I have dyed turned brown. Should I boil them in just water and hang them out or just touch them up with a little gray or tan?

Tinemaster, I caught the coyote by a front foot. He was just a pup. I think I just got lucky and he tried to go around it and might have slipped into the snare.

The tracks said he was trying the uphill side of the set. A little muddy.

I spray paint mine with flat tans and light browns. I run 1X19
1/16 cable for the most part for coyotes. I use springs with amberg, cams and slim locks. It is open where I snare and I like 5-6 foot snares with 5-6 of extinsion on it. Very seldom do I have anything to tangle them up in.

My fist dozen that I built are sprayed flat brown and they are 3/32. I think now that almost all of the snow is gone I will ad a little tan and grey to them.

Yep, browns and greys are the most common colors in a wooded enviroment...even during snow.
I very seldom use an all white snare.

Do any of you do anything special to your support wires and locks to help camouflage them other than maybe a leaf folded over the lock?

Not 100% sure I understand your question....
That said, we have a vine here in this state called honey suckle vine, different from a honey suckle bush, but honey suckle, none the less!
It stays green all year, is non poison and can make a snare really disappear on a kill pole or any other type of support or set-up.
Like all vines, it is very leafy and where it grows it covers everything. It is easy to work with, as it wraps around easily and is very natual.
Probably grows in many states.
It is a God send to a snareman.It is the ultimate in snare camoflauge!
I have killed more coyotes in snares because of this plant!

You have pretty much answered my question but I was wondering if you make a special effort to hide-camouflage your support wire and if you drape anything over the lock to make it more inconspicuous without hindering it's action? If you are in a location that does not have this type of vine is it prudent to import a little grass or a few small sticks to hide things or is the addition of new materials sometimes a deterrent in itself?

Well, you never want anything that will hinder your snare closing. I camo-paint paint all my kill poles, snare supports and snares.
I use steel wammys on all my snares. This allows me to be able to insert a folded leaf,( I like maple) in the wammy and fold it over a Cam lock...this is two-fold. One it hides it and two, it protects it from freezing rain, as it really sheds water!
Not a 100% but what is?
If you use Cam locks, try it...you won't be disappointed!

Ok I will add my little knowledge to this too. I think there is several reasons that a coyote may avoid a snare set, one is because its too open and there isn't enough cover for the snare, I have seen some guys snare in wide open ground with no brush to help break up a snare and catch critters, I have never had in luck in that, and also I believe that people check snares too much on foot and walk around the snares to much, I like to check mine close up at least every 6 of 7 days if weather permits, I know some places have snare check laws that wont allow that, but if you can put them where you can check them from a ways off I think it helps.

Another reason I have seen here is cable size, I used to use 3/32 snares all the time, then I tried the 1/16 1X19 cable and I noticed a lot less refusals with the 1/16 but if you didn't have the right loop size coyotes would be hip caught and chew off quick with 1/16, so I tried the 5/64 for coyotes, then I seen a few more refusals then the 1/16 but not like the 3/32.

Then I seen some snares stuck out like a sore thumb, and so I started boiling them in more baking soda and that helped a lot, but if it got to light colored they stuck out bad them, but if it snowed they blended in a lot better then just plain cable, so then I started playing with painting them, the best colors I have found is a light tan color, as close to a dead grass colored tan as you could get, but when you hung them in the sage brush or mahogoney like we have here the plain tan struck out, so I then painted them the tan color and then streaked them with a sage green color and a lighter brown color, no I feel that my snares blend in pretty well unless I get really deep snow, but even then the brush I hang them in will always help to conceal them some what too.

Now in the snow I always have done like Newt said too, I walk the trail they are on and if I come to one even if its the last one I will walk right over the snare and keep walking for aways, or I will walk aways off to the side where I can see them and not even walk down the snare line.

On the catch area, I have found if the animal is in the area where the snare was hanging and the animal is dead, chances are I wont catch another animal there, but I use 10 foot snare, and I have found as long as the animal isn't right where you hang the snare you can reuse the spot again and pick up another animal, I had one spot this winter where I had 2 snares, and in those 2 snares I caught 4 cats at that location hanging it right back at the same spot, would I have done that with a coyote, maybe, maybe not, but I feel if they can get a ways away from the snare spot it saves the location.

Just whats worked for me here.

Now there is the voice of reason!
Great post Cattrax!

Here is the way a trail snare should look in this type of enviroment.

Can you find the snare?

If not...and you're looking for it...then that would be my point!
A snare should blend in with it's enviroment.
This snare is off a kill pole , which is hidden in the cedar off to the right of the trail.
Snare is dead center. 14" loop set for coyotes.
Bottom of the loop is 12-14" off the ground.

My trappers I meet do not know how to blend a snare properly...or they just don't take the time!

How long does it take you to set a snare like this?
What kind of anchor are you using?

Nice blending LT!

A 5 ft. 5/8 rerod kill pole.
Snare is "wammy-ed" on No# 9 wire.
The cedar tree is an implant.
My personal trick for hiding 5/8 killpoles.

Here is a 1/16th 1x19 in snow...even painted white, it still will stand out some, unless tightly blocked.
Not enough to matter though..

Do you have any pics of snares in the snow which aren't painted white?

...how many hundred do you want?

This is a 1/8th 7x7 cable!

..something I never use, however just thought I would try it to see how well it would blend with the snow cover.

An experiment, really. 1/8th" cable is like rope to me, as I never even use 3/32nd.

Although it looks like it is right in the middle of the vines, it is not. Just the amgle of the camara.

This is Honeysuckle vine...I use it on many of my snare locations. It stays green all year and the leaves and vines do wonders for hiding a snare..even this large ropey 1/8th, which is really a wolf snare that I set for coyotes.

That blends well. How about without any cover?

This a photo that took almost a year,(to the day) to make.
I had a 1/16th 1x19 snare set in a crawl under.
Came back one day and had...(You guessed it) the tip of a coyote's tail.
It appeared to have made it all the way through and the snare lock closed around the tip of the tail.
Obviously, the coyote got free.

I kept the tip, vowing to catch that coyote. It was a black one, so not hard to recognise, as black coyotes are rare in these parts.

Almost a year to the day, I came up to the same location and there was the black coyote...this time, choked up.
Persistance pays off, I guess!

Photo: (Of both) enclosed!

I need to read before I type

Read above.

Thats a nicer then the way i would have put it.

Not all Livetraps fault...I'm having some problems posting pictures but think I got it sorted out now.

Hey Livetrap,
I heard you'd been under the weather...Hope you're feeling better.

Picture of an old "trap shy" dog coyote taken in 1/16th cable with a Cam lock.
Notice the hind leg.
Although the coyote wasn't using it, it had completely healed over. Hair had grown over the pads on the coyotes foot.

Went from good news, to bad news, to possibly even more bad news. Must be karma.

That's a different post...


Hope you're feeling better soon.

Sorry. I'll let ya know if you want through PM's.

I know. That's probably why I only try and address a handful of members here.

Another late winter coyote in 1x19 1/16th.
Vertical entangement is the key to putting coyotes down quick where you can't use a choke spring.

Pretty wild. Way to go.

I hope more trappers will add to this post, as it will benefit trappers who want to learn how to snare or improve their snaring!

This is a "fence pass through" that I caught so many coyotes at, that they destroyed the fence.
I ended up ringing a cut section onto the old fence, then just cut a hole in it for the animals to pass through.
This should be done during pre-season for best results.

Honey suckle vine helps block down the opening as well as hide the snare.

I was working a ADC coyote job in February. I had snares and footholds set out. I had luck connecting with a male coyote at this snare, but ...



when I checked the snare site two days later, I found that his mate (probably) had come back to the snare site and had paced back and forth, pawing at the ground. She was about 10-12 feet outside the snare circle. It is hard to see, but there is a strip of ground dug at in the bottom center of the picture. You can see the snare circle in the top center.



I did finally catch her 3 days after her mate. She was caught in a foothold, by the back foot, just outside the their den.



This was the first ADC coyote job I had done. Total time from set to capture of both yotes: 13 days (Their unlucky number.)

Very nice Rattie!

Hard to beat 100%! Job well done!

This is a photo of an old trap shy male coyote that avoided me for quite sometime.
I found out where he was going under a wooded gate.
The snare with fresh snow really stuck out but I blended it in, with small bits of twigs, the way they would naturally fall from above during a snow storm.
Next snow fall...there he was!

I think when I first started I was trying to squeeze/guide them too much. This set was just put on a willow overhanging the trail. A little blocking on the uphill side, but not too much.

That trail is a perfect example of an ambush site...don't ya' wish you had more of those around!

If you can't see the snare..then neither will a coyote!
1x19 1/16th with a Slim lock.

....and the results!

Slim lock on 1/16th !

Coyotes going under fences are one of the easiest ways to snare for beginners. This one had just a litle too much cable...



Perfect blend on a "pass through" surrounded by native honey suckle vine...One of the tools I use to help camaflauge a snare!



I often "flag" a snare location, so I can check it from a distance. Coyotes seldom pay attention to it.
But I can find it easily. Really helps speed checking a snareline.



Blend job on a pass through using natavie vegatation...you don't want to over do it...Sometimes less is more!


Another similar type pass through...can you find the snare?

Anyone else have some photos to share?

Is this what you were think'n bout, LT ?

LOL, what a maroon!

What ? I boat trap/snare coyotes

AND you White not Maroon!

You have to look at the name of this thread "Reasons why coyotes avoid snares!" Now look at Newt's picture, he was contributing to the post. LOL.

Aint had a rat in the barn,since I put that picture in it.

Gott'a love Newt's sense of humor!



Now on a more serious note.....

Here is a trick I use to help hide the larger style locks such as Cam-locks and washer types.
The stem of the leaf is inserted into the 'wammy' before the No# 9 wire is inserted. This holds it in place. The leaf is then folded, as this helps hide the lock and also protects it from freezing rain and snow.

Lock detection is what causes many coyotes to stall out!

This is how I often blend in a "go-under", using leaves not only help hide the loop...but also to cover muddy boot tracks in wet weather..which is real common during fur season.
There is a snare there...trust me!

This is another example of how I use leaves to erase muddy footprints.
It also helps blend in a snare at a go-under.
You want it to look like the wind blew them there and make it look completely natural!

Photo of using a leaf to help hide the Cam-lock and to protect it from freezing ice.

Yes. I like it where I can fasten the snare solid.

I've had coyotes literally drop in their tracks with that setup and the snare just behind the ears. It must shut off blood to their brain real quick.

If the coyote is getting tangled in small bushes with some give to them, they will chew and may chew through 1/16 cable.

I use the leaf too, or a small fir bough after snow covers all the leaves. A head of goldenrod or other weed works too.

It all works. I use maple leaves becuse we have so many but anything that keeps the hole in the lock from freezing and helps hide the lock, is ideal.

Wish I did. Need some people with coyote problems around here first.

good question

Anyone else have any coyote snaring photos?

LT Grey is on a ROLLLLLLLLL!

Yep. spent the day at the hospital....trying to get back on track!

Welcome back my friend

LT i bet the only time you find your snares is when a coyote is in them cause otherwise you cant find them Lol

Yep, I once bet a guy who came up the last week of season... to ride along, that if there wasn't a coyote,'coon or fox there , that there wasn't a snare set....just a joke really, however on that day I had 13 animals out of 17 snares.

Another great post! Just wanted to say I really enjoy reading what ya'll have to say. Yes, I am a "greenhorn" trapper. I started last year and I did catch my first coyote in a leghold. Man I got fired up! But I wasn't too successful with the snares except for unwanted catches. I thought I would post some pics I took back in the winter but after reading this post and seeing LT's pics I'm alittle embarrassed. Well, it was my first shot. Now I know how to blend them in better. Thanks for your time on this forum. Please feel free to critique or advice?

Bearcrazy, I'm pretty sure you're a person I got to spend a little time with at the NTA. Although it was not the setting I would have liked to show someone how to set a snare, I hope a few of the things we talked about will help you on your trapline this fall and winter.

These photos of snares you've posted, seem at least to me to really stand out against this enviroment. I would want some honeysuckle vine,( I'm pretty sure it grows in your area ) or some other native vegatation, to help hide your snare, lock and support. Your snare does not seem to be "treated" and although trappers have caught coyotes and fox in untreated snares, I ALWAYS treat mine, using Formula 1 and 3 different colors of camo paint.
How big is your loop and are the trails going into a bait?

Yea, I am the guy who was runnin with Ohio Andy whom you gave the snare to. I am now treating my snares with Formula One. When I first started all I did was cooked them a little in bakin soda and water. I'm gonna start doin a better job of blendin in the snare. Got some good ideas from your pics. The trails that I set on did not lead to a bait.

I hung around Clint Locklears booth for a while yesterday. I bought his snaring video and watched it after I got home last night from the convention. Got some more good ideas. One thing I have been doin this summer is watchin DVD's over and over again ..... plus with the many hours on T Man I am pretty sure I can do more natural lookin sets. But I guess I'll find out this fall. Locklear referred to some snaring sets as "caveman sets" because of their crudeness. That is how I would describe the pics of the sets I previously posted.

By the way LT, thanks for the coon snare and kill pole. Very cool.

is there anything that should be done to the snare before painting?

Yep, forgive me for not sayin so earlier but you were a big help. Pleasure to meet ya as well.

Pleasure was all mine. I met a lot of people there....wish I could rtemember all their names.

LT,

Everything ok? Haven't been here in a while so I'm kinda out of the loop. Hope everyone is ok here. You ever get that fishing trip?

Yep, just got back from the NTA. No, haven't had time to go fishing yet....maybe this fall.

The way all snared coyotes should look....in my opinion!

Snare,( above) in a grassy trail that head snared a nice coyote.

Gregerson L4 lock, 5/64th cable.

i've learned a lot from this thread. txs for sharing guys. can you guys tell me how has the best coyote snaring dvd/video?

Well a lot of it would depend on the type of terrain you're wanting to snare in.
Have any photos from the area you trap?
Is it pasture land? Desert? Mountains? Grasslands?

In PA during the cable restraint season, it snows continuously. How to avoid making your presence known on a regular basis when you have to dig out the snare (not everyday, but a lot)?

Caught a red fox last year in a truck rut. i used to go in and open up some of the trails for a short distance but i'm assuming the disturbance may have hurt my success.

most of my snaring of coyotes will be around livestock in brushy foothills and/or farmland. i live in n. cal and the only way i can keep trapping is by doing adc work for farmers and ranchers. on top of that we are not allowed to any steel jaw traps. we are only allowed to use snares, body grippers, and shooting. they also let us use live traps, but i've only been able to get 1 young female into one in 2 years.

live traping a coyote i bet that would be a job 2 do on a reguler bases

The ice storm last winter froze up all my snares in nearly a half inch of ice. They really contrasted against the snow then. It couldn't have been worse if there had been a flashing neon sign saying "SNARE". Tracks showed that in the first night, I had 15 refusals to go through, which wouldn't have mattered anyway as the snares were frozen solid. This year, I'm going to try something different with the snares, to keep them lighter in color to blend just a bit better, though, not sure which to use, the Full Metal Jacket over lighter spray painted snares, or Formula One.

Ice will put the best of us out of commision!

Above photo shows how a fox can safely pass through a properly set coyote snare. Now that's how it should look IF you are trying to avoid foxes and snare coyotes.
...and no, it isn't a 100% either, so don't think I'm telling you I can do this all the time without some knockdowns or foot caught red fox.
The above snare in the photo caught a coyote next check, though!

We don't get too many white bellied coyotes in Ohio. Most are low grades by comparrison to a Montana or Alberta coyote. But...we kill'em just the same.

Fence snare, using oak leaves on a (fallen) branch as a block and lock camo.

Lt Grey thanks for posting this thread.Great input and alot of great pics. I've been debating if I should continue the baking soda method, this was the way I was told to treat snares. Some say just put them in trail. Well after reading this thread went out and painted light tan. The blending aspect will be used vs just stick in trail. Like the leaf tip Thanks Rich

You're welcome.
ADC should be the one that opened my eyes to boiling snares and having a rust problem,( from the inside out) if kept over to the next year.
I too boiled snares for many years. Also had some problems with corrosion and just couldn't understand why....ADC, I owe ya' one!

I now use Formula 1 and camo paint. It has worked real well for me. I also used to use 7x7 cable...got away from that one too.

We're stuck using 7x7 by law, so the better there camoflaged into the surroundings the better. Also Cable Restraints only usable type of snare, which you already know allowed. to many dogs and people, I'll take what they give me, atleast we have a season.

The above photo shows that if properly set, most foxes will pass through a coyote snare when set just off the ground at a go-under.
Truth be told, they will knock or pull it down somewhat...this one didn't!
I have flank caught them and even by one or both hind feet.

If you were fur trapping, then you would normally want both.
We have few foxes anymore, so I try to miss them and kill the coyotes.

This post has been great. I am getting back into trapping after a 19 year hiatus. I never used snares before, but now they are legal here in WV. I ordered some from the Snare Shop that would be legal here. I need info and instruction. What would be the best dvd for snaring instruction in mountainous thick country like here in WV? Thanks.

Coyotes will often sneak in side trail when coming to a bait pile...
One (above photo) that wasn't sneaky enough...

Doubled swiveled, disposible staked 7x7- 5/64th Gregerson 14" loop on my #9 wire snare support on a grassy trail, going to a bait pile.
This was on a trail that the coyote made, as he wouldn't travel mine.
Netted me a nice coyote, next trip though.

....and there he is! (Above photo!)

Average day, late December.
No snow yet, but frozen ground.
'Coons picked up coming into bait piles.

I get PM's from trappers, wanted to know about accidental dog caught in snares.

White 1/16th in a trail..can you even see it?
It's dead center just under the duck stick!

Above photo shows a well blended snare in a trail by using native vegatation. The snare is dead center of the picture. If you look hard enough, you can make out part of the bottom loop...( but by then, you're caught! )

What's your average loop size for these eastern coyotes? I've seen you post 16 inches, 15 inches, etc. Is 10-12 inch too small?

A bigger loop isn't going to affect you if the bottom of the loop is the proper distance from the ground.The bottom of the loop is what catches the neck while going through the snare causing the top of the loop to fall or close onto the back of the neck behind the head.

So what is the best height off the ground?

A very good question!

Coyote sizes vary from region to region.
Here adult males can get 40-50lbs, (true weight) easily.
I have caught a number of 25-35lbers too.( More of those than the others!)

Rather than trying to figure all these things out, I would go with
a 14" loop and make the TOP OF IT 27" off the ground.

This can vary an inch of so of course, depending on the set and the actual trail.
Slanted trails will be different, as will crawl unders but then, we're talking about a level trail here going from A to B.
Don't worry about the bottom of the loop, just go with a 14" loop, 27" AT THE TOP and the bottom will take care of itself!

You go with that and you'll do well!

Thanks LT. Another question. You mentioned the crawl unders. I have a friend who wants me to set some snares at crawl unders on a fence keeping his goats in. He says the lowest fence wire is like 9-10 inches off the ground. How do you set these coyote snares at the crawl unders?

Lt.Grey, is that saying that you feel the top of the loop is more critical than the bottom from the ground? This question isn't written to feel like an attack on you,so don't take it that way.I was just curious with the 27 inches to the top.

These are ( photos of ) a trail snare and they are from both sides, coming and going.
Same set, different angle.
1x19 5/64th on a kill pole.

tbn, It works out to be the same really.
When a coyote stops a snare and stalls out, it's usually the lock he sees staring at him in the face! Too many trappers try to "force the coyote" through the snare!



WV, go unders..... These can be made and enhanced by the use of a tile spade and then left to age or used right away. ( I prefer the aged ones .)
With the space you gave, a coyote can enter at any point, so you will need to find a "swell" or low point as coyote natuarally use these 1st!

I will try to find my post that I had on the subject and hopefully help you out on this.

Yes, I can understand that. Since I always see coyotes on a dead trot on trail,not field or food source, then I just picture them trotting through the snare. Thanks for the reply.

Always glad to help.
Listen, my way, is just that, mine....it doesn't mean it's better than anyone elses and I do not wish to portray it as that...but, it does work for me and if another trapper can pick up a few pointers and use them on his (or her) line, so much the better!

That is cool! Like I said, I always pay attention from the ground to the bottom of the loop,but you gave me another angle to consider. I don't picture them stalling out like you brought up. Thanks