For those on here that sew up your pelts, do you sew after or before fleshing ? Also would dental floss be a good selection for thread material ? I never did it but am thinking I should sew up two hides that have big holes in them. Thanks in advance.

I sew mine up after fleshing and haven't had any problems using dental floss for thread.

I clean skin so haven't had to deal with fleshing. I use dental floss and it has often returned from the tannery with the floss in place!

If a hole has material around it that needs to be fleshed off I would clean that up with an X-acto type tool and sew the hole closed. It seems to me that the fleshing process might tend to make the hole only bigger if it isn't stitched shut first, IMHO.

I would take precautions in the fleshing process to avoid the stitching too.

i always sew up after fleshing just carfull around holes

If it is going to the auction, sew it up.
Loops and not too tight , with the fur on the outside of the closing. If you can pass your hand over it after and not feal the bundle you have done it right, Before the hide dries brush the hair so it is smooth and in-place, and you may get it by the graders detection.

Flesh first, it's much easier to do, and you get the edges clean which will make a nice tidy sew line.

If you have a wierd shaped hole, try to make it oblong with the lay of the fur, it will sew up more natural this way than trying to match edges from oddball shape. Keep all of the fur on the fur side as well. Always be at least an eighth of an inch from the edge to keep the stitch from coming loose out of the leather.

Dental floss is a good material if you not going to have your pelts returned, some times it will come undone as well as just break apart in the tanning process's.

I've gone to using uphostlery thread, much stronger, a whole cone will last for ever. It's small and light weight like floss is to.

The advantage to dental floss is that it has wax on it that will keep your stitches tight. I tried taxidermy thread also, but it is hard to keep it tight and it was black and would show more easily. You cannot beat dental floss.

If you have a big hole, be sure to take small stitches and after it dries, you will not be able to tell there was a hole. I have sewed up some real badly shot-up coyotes over the years with good results.

I used dental floss for years on furbearer, bears, goat capes ect.. works great but I have since when to a wax thread that is designed for hand fur sewing of clothing. It seems to hold a knot alot better and is tan in color and really hides the repair.

Yea you can beat dental floss LOL I have for years using the other I mentioned. Buy a nuetral color upholestry thread once and never buy anything else again.

One other thing one can do so the stitches don't unravel is to throw in a cross stich or half hitch once in a while. Another thing is not to have your stitches more than a 1/4 inch close to each other, to close and all the work will just pull out when the pelt dries.

Dental floss is just a poor mans way of getting by and it's way easier to get at some store is all. I never use it any more, I've sewed up stuff that would make professional seamsters run and hide LOL nothing comes loose any more. All my fur goes to professional tannerys as well, some of them are not so easy on holes, you pay for the tanning regardless of what happens to the pelt.

I always flesh first. Then tighten on a board, not too tight and then sew. Use a 3 cornered glover's needle. For thread any heavy linen thread or dental floss. I have a couple large thread spools of heavy linen thread which have lasted for years and years. They are so old they are even the wooden spools.

Notice my old spool of thread in the background.

I flesh all mine first. I use flesh color thread, and a surgeon's needle and 2 pair of surgical forceps. keep your stitches tight (i put 40 stitches per inch) and make sure you pull the hair back through while you are sewing up your hole.


just my 3 cents
mallard_drake85

what type of needle can be used that is readily available?

40 stitches an inch? good god..... are you a plastic surgeon?

took the words from my mouth PSC203

LMAO, no no, not a plastic surgeon, but i do take meticulous pride in my work, and a few of the old timer buyers i've sold to couldnt find my stitches even after i told them where they were. it pays to put forth the extra time and effort for quality results. and besides, i wont get to see my buddies again until college resumes, so it gives me something to do! lol

Go to a vet supply store or to a vet and get a needle from them. It should have three sides on it and is sharp. As in it will cut you. They come in all differnt sizes and shapes. I like a S shaped needle myself.

Go to a vet supply store or to a vet and get a needle from them. It should have three sides on it and is sharp. As in it will cut you. They come in all differnt sizes and shapes. I like a S shaped needle myself.

LOL @ TexA, guess there's 3 ways now, just do it to get by, do it the easy way or do it right !!

Which brings up an interesting question. If you sew a hide together with dental floss, and then it gets through the tanner and on to the garment manufacturer, are they going to leave the dental floss in or take it out and have it professionally sewed? Seems to me they'll redo it, like Tex said. Doubt they are going to sell a $2000 coat with a bobcat collar stitched up with dental floss.

On boards I tack it closed as my fingers are so clubby I can't sew very well.

Guess surgery ain't my forte.

Holes can be pinned shut as some here have mentioned...

If I don't have dental floss I use 6-8lb monofilament instead.

I believe taking the time to learn things correctly or at the very least properly saves you dollars in the long run.

The whole idea of sewing up a pelt and trying to dodge honesty in letting the buyer know about it is aborherrent to me any way. He always lose's not the seller.

I'll garuantee you that the end manufacture will re-sew or cut around the hole if that pelt makes it that far.

All these methods of sewing will work, some are better than others, I as an end user like to be able to make sure my time is used better in the long run, thats why I explain it the way I do it and not some lazy way to just get by!

As to why take the extra time. Well if one wants to dodge a buyer with a large hole the best way to do it is carefully and not cause a lot more cautious looks with the rest of your lot!

I've been sewing holes for more than 50 years and I've gone to "Fireline". 6lb test is strong enough and fine enough to do a great job. If you take enough pride in your pelts,and don't have 500 to do, you eventually will sew up the holes.

Wow!! I didn't realize that I now have 400 posts. I was on the original forum and the subsequent ones and I have yet to hit the 800 mark. Some people read, others type.

TexA try the three cornered needle, there is no need for pliers then. Yes any thread is ok for sure. And the hole will be opened up in the tanning process. After tanning the holes are trimmed and then sewn on a fur sewing machine.

Sewing will help the hole from not getting any larger in the drumming process auction houses.

foothillstrapper,I use various weights of Fireline in almost all my taxidermy work.6# is about perfect for most hides trappers deal with.The smaller the thread and the less stretch it has,the better the seam.Fireline.Amazing stuff.